When a mechanical watch stops

Remember what happened first

If the watch was quietly resting after being worn, an exhausted power reserve is a natural explanation. A fall, hard impact, water, mist under the crystal or a suddenly stiff crown changes the picture. Do not wind it in those circumstances.

For an ordinary stop, the rules for winding, the expected power reserve and the date-setting sequence are useful. If it keeps happening, consider whether service is needed rather than simply restarting each time.

Take the watch off, gently dry any moisture on the outside and contact a service centre. Avoid the pushers and do not try to shake the movement awake; that may make existing damage worse.

Take a moment for the instructions

Different movements start in different ways. Many automatics can be wound through the crown, but some cannot. The calibre reference in the paperwork will help you find the right instructions without guessing a number of turns.

Handle the watch only when it is dry. Release a screw-down crown as instructed, remembering to close it carefully after setting without crossing the threads.

Give the mainspring some energy

If hand-winding is supported, turn the crown slowly in the specified direction. Clear resistance at the end of a manual movement’s wind means it is time to stop. A typical automatic has no equivalent hard stop, but there is no benefit in winding endlessly.

The seconds hand may not start after the very first turn: the spring needs enough torque. Continue within the instructions, without pressing harder or tapping the watch against your palm.

Watch for a steady start

Lay the watch dial up and observe the seconds hand. If the manufacturer describes gentle rocking to start it, follow that movement rather than swinging the rotor with sharp gestures.

Still no movement after a correct initial wind? That is a sensible place to end the home checks. A watchmaker can investigate without adding strain to the mechanism.

Set the time once it is running

Once the watch runs steadily, move on to setting. The calendar deserves care: before using the quick-set, move the hands outside the prohibited period given in the manual. Finish setting the time according to the model’s instructions.

Finally return the crown fully to its operating position and screw it down if required. This avoids leaving it accidentally pulled out and restores the case’s intended closure.

See how the next day goes

Note when you started the watch and wear it normally. If it stops again much sooner than expected despite sufficient winding, the mainspring, winding system or condition of the movement may need attention.

A note of how long it ran will help diagnosis. Repeated stops, unfamiliar noises or a sudden change in rate call for a service visit. Opening the back or adding oil at home is best avoided.